Part 7 The Keys

Sea to shining sea part 7

March 1

We have finally arrived in the Keys after 4 weeks and 3457 miles! We've now visited the four corners of the continental U.S. via motorhome, from Alaska to Key West and San Diego to Maine.

Our drive from Homestead took us along the edge of the Everglades. In a canal running alongside the road we spotted some alligators hauled out on a sandbar and on the bank under the mangroves. Herons, egrets and ibis were everywhere. At one point the road was raised up over the treetops which were filled with Great White Egrets. Two spoonbills were seen trolling for food. Would have been a great picture, but there was no place to stop right at that point. People were fishing in the canal at some points, despite the presence of the gators.   

Key Largo is the first key adjacent to the mainland. It’s also the largest running 30 miles from end to end. Some keys are separated by a narrow channel, others by wide expanses. Cruising Hwy 1 gives the impression you’re in the middle of a jungle. In reality, either the Atlantic or the Gulf of Mexico is just on the other side of a wide band of vegetation. Oh, and the other thing that lets you know you’re not in a jungle…from Key Largo to Islamorada the road is lined with tropical resorts, gated communities, marinas, and the ever present tourist shops. On the larger keys, artery roads intersect with Hwy 1 leading to residential areas and “regular” shopping centers (not tourist attractions). Some of the smaller keys have very few commercial businesses, but plenty of small homes on dead end streets, some ending on the Atlantic, some on the Gulf or some on canals cut into the coral base. The coral base is down about 2’ in most places making a very hard substructure. Just try digging very deep!

More than 100 islands are connected by 42 bridges, with many of the islands only accessible by water. The longest bridge is 7 miles connecting Marathon Key to Big Pine and the Lower Keys. Directions to specific places are routinely given by reference to a mile marker, i.e. Sugarloaf KOA is at mm 20. Key West is at mm 0. From Key Largo to Key West is approximately 127 miles. The only living coral reef in North America survives about 6 miles offshore and stretches all the way to the Dry Tortugas.

In 1912, Henry Flagler built the Overseas Railroad connecting the Keys. It took 7 years to build and cost 700 lives and $50,000,000. It was destroyed in 1935 by a category 5 hurricane.

7 mile bridge fading out in the distance

 We pulled into the KOA and stopped to register right in front of our friends from Maryland, Cheryl and Tim Golden. We met Cheryl and Tim two years ago at Yellowstone’s Edge RV Park in Montana. They are “fulltiming” snowbirds and spend the month of February at Sugarloaf. They invited us to join them following year. There are hundreds, maybe even thousands, of RV parks in Florida and most, if not all, are booked solid during the winter with “snowbirds“. We could not get reservations until the first of March. Cheryl and Tim extended their stay so we could have fun together. We also met two other couples that have become fast friends with the Goldens.  Armed with recommendations from Cheryl on ways to spend our time we immediately planned our dining priorities. First on the list was Sunset Grill, a beautiful restaurant on Marathon Key overlooking the Atlantic and with a view of 7 mile bridge. Patio dining is set around a swimming pool giving diners the option of relaxing in the water with a cocktail and perhaps a sandwich. When we set off for the restaurant we were reminded that it’s just on the other side of “the bridge”. Thinking “the bridge” meant the one we could see from the campground connecting Sugarloaf to Cudjoe we were surprised when it took an hour to get to the restaurant. “The bridge” is common reference to the 7 mile bridge which is quite a ways from Sugarloaf. Oh well! It was a beautiful drive and we had a fantastic meal in 

Cheryl with Bear and Becker in front of their new coach

beautiful scenery. I tried the Mojo Pork plate, a Cuban dish, and it was fantastic. 

Jerre taking a picture of the Atlantic from Sunset Grill's dock.

On the way back to Sugarloaf we stopped at Bahia Honda, a gorgeous public beachfront park and a very popular one. Campsites were packed and the beaches were full of sunbathers of all ages. We were wondering why all these young people were out of school and finally figured out it was Spring Break. Not sure how we planned our trip to hit both Mardi Gras and Spring Break???

Those beached whales are actually lying in the surf.

It didn’t take long to acclimate to Island life. Tuesday, I woke up thinking it was Wednesday. I was glad to find out it was actually Tuesday and I wasn’t hallucinating. No, it wasn’t due to over imbibing Monday night…just tired and glad to kick back and relax. Jerre and I got up early to check out the sunrise which we could only see from the bridge. Unfortunately, it was not memorable so we decided to go for a walk instead. Sugarloaf KOA is situated on the Atlantic and north side of the key just below the bridge connecting Sugarloaf to Cudjoe Key. Adjacent to most of the bridges are walking/cycling/fishing bridges providing safe places to walk and generally free of mosquitos. There is a full service marina with boat launch and a protected sandy beach to swim in.

Looking at the park from the bridge. The marina is behind the trees on the right.

A clump of mangroves shields the marina and is home to Brown Pelicans and an occasional iguana. Iguanas are a foreign, invasive critter that devastates local flora. We saw at least four hanging around the campground.

Pelican roost

Chilling by the pool!

To our delight, the next night we were invited to join in a dinner at Bobalu’s, a local restaurant. Buddy, one of Cheryl’s group, had gone fishing out of Miami and brought back Mahi Mahi, (called Dolphin in Florida). Bobalu’s cooked the fish 3 ways (fried, grilled and blackened) and provided side dishes of broccoli, mac and cheese, mashed sweet potatoes, French fries, and corn bread. We brought our own wine.

A rowdy bunch to be sure!

Wednesday we explored a little, but mostly just stayed around camp. Cheryl and Tim came over for a glass or two of wine. After dinner we decided to check out the Pelican Pub, here in the campground, and listened to a steel drum band. Pretty good music.

Thursday we decided to venture into Key West. Remembering March is Spring Break, we were warned there would be unruly, drunken crowds falling in the streets. We planned to leave early to have breakfast at Blue Heaven in Key West, a lovely restaurant with chickens, roosters and chicks prowling through the tables for handouts from diners, and cats lounging on chairs or on the floor.

Blue Heaven dining area...tables set up under a huge Banyan tree between two old Key West houses.

We wanted to arrive close to the 8 a.m. opening as this is a very popular restaurant. Even though it was 8:15 when we got there no parking was available close by. We had passed a “handicap” spot not far away. Rob let us out and went back to claim it using Stan’s placard. We were third in line and were seated before Rob caught up with us. “Signature” Bloody Marys were ordered to fortify us for the crowds of unruly students. Stan ordered a seafood omelet that came stuffed with loads of lobster. By the time we were ready to leave the lobby was crammed with people enjoying Bloody Marys or Mimosas while they waited for a table. We definitely lucked out being there early.

looking for handouts

We left the car parked and walked about two blocks in search of a ticket booth for the city tour trolley. We were close to the Hemingway House so opted to check it out.

Hemingway's front gate

Hemingway's bedroom

View of the house 

 Hemingway lived in Key West with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer. The house is two stories set on a large walled in lot. A separate bungalow was used as his studio. A boxing ring was set up in the yard so he could indulge in a favorite pastime boxing with friends.  While Hemingway was on a trip to Europe with his mistress Martha Gellhorn, Pauline had a swimming pool installed in the place of the boxing ring. The cost to build the pool was more than twice the cost of the house and property.

and there's the pool through the trees

Hemingway was also known for his six toed cats. Today there are 50 cats living on the estate with full time caretakers, condos, and free access to the yard and residence. Departed cats used to be buried   a corner of the yard with cement slabs marking the location and identifying the deceased. Deceased cats are now cremated to preserve space in the yard.

We left Hemingway and hopped on the trolley to take a tour of the city. We hopped off at the Butterfly museum. This is actually a garden designed specifically to support butterflies. There are hundreds of different varieties flying free. Entry and exit is through a double door (one at each end of a hall) so butterflies can’t escape. There is also a nursery containing hundreds of butterfly chrysalises. When these hatch the new butterflies are released into the garden. As we walked through the garden we were surrounded by butterflies flitting from flower to flower. Very cool experience!

feasting on bananas

one landed on the outer edge of my hat

Another tourist attraction in Key West is a larger than life buoy marking the southernmost point in the continental U.S. Most buoys mark channels or hazards in the water. This one is on land. It’s tradition to have a picture taken in front it. Despite the warnings of crowds of unruly drunks, people were waiting to take their pictures in an orderly line about a block long. We took pictures of the buoy, but from afar.

nobody we know

Key West was originally called Cayo Hueso, “City of Bones”, by early Spanish travelers. Juan Pablo Salas acquired the island as a Spanish Land Grant in 1815. It was sold to John Simonton in 1822 but it wasn’t until 1828 when Congress acknowledged the land grant and Simonton became the legal owner. The name was then changed to Key West.

Salt production began about 1830, but “wrecking” was the early industry of the Keys and then by 1940 sponge collection. In 1831 an Englishman started a cigar factory which brought Cubans across the 90 miles.

After the hurricane destroyed the railroad, maritime and air transportation was the only connection to Key West until the Overseas Highway was completed in 1938 using the damaged railroad right of way and bridges.

The U.S. Navy was introduced early in the development of Key West to end the problem of piracy. A Naval training facility was established during WWI and a submarine base was completed in 1932. A Naval Air Station was established in 1945. The Navy needed water for support so it paid for 2/3 of an 18” pipeline the length of the keys.

After the war the economy shrank, but was reinvigorated with the Key West Pink’s, a type of shrimp. We tried the pinks and compared them to the Royal Reds we had picked up while in Alabama. The Pinks were frozen, but a little bit fresher compared to the long frozen Reds. We liked the pinks better and they were a little cheaper. We’ll probably find them in our refrigerator again along our way home.

The last interesting fact about Key West….

In 1982 the U.S. Border Patrol set up a blockade on U.S. Hwy 1 in Florida City, just north of the Keys. Keys citizens were required to show proof of U.S.citizenship when crossing to the mainland on the only artery to and from the Keys.

In protest, Dennis Wardlow the Mayor of Key West, sought an injunction to stop the blockade. He was not successful. As he left the courthouse he announced to reporters that “tomorrow at noon the Florida Keys will secede from the Union.” As promised, the next day at noon, at Mallory Square, the mayor read the proclamation that the Conch Republic was an independent nation separate from the U.S. He then symbolically began the Republic by breaking a stale loaf of bread over the head of a man dressed in a Navy uniform. After one minute the, now Prime Minister Wardlow, surrendered to the Admiral in charge of the Navy Base and demanded 1 billion dollars in foreign aid and war relief. He didn’t get it, but the blockade was removed.

The “Conch Republic” refers to all of the Keys north to Skeeter’s Last Chance Saloon, in Florida City where the blockade was set up, thereby establishing a new U.S. border. In 1994 the Monroe County Commission passed a resolution enforcing the validity of the secession. The Secretary General of the Conch Republic has created “official” passports of the Republic. These have been recognized and accepted by many Caribbean and European nations. Their independence is celebrated every year with a week long celebration in April. This is one holiday we’ll be sorry to miss!

You may remember early on I described a problem Stan was having with the step to his motorhome…

Word had been received that J.D., a rv repairman, was coming to the park. We left Key West to find the “J.D.” referred to be Jeffrey Dean Helsing. He and Bobbi, friends from Southwest Country Coachers, our RV group, flew down to surprise us and to celebrate Bobbi’s birthday. They stayed in one of the rental RV units in the park. So, for the next four days we did some sightseeing, and eating, and drinking with Jeff and Bobbi. The shock on Rob’s face was worth the price of the ticket per Bobbi. Too bad no cameras were on hand.

Cheryl and Tim were leaving us on Saturday (3/7), so we invited them to join us for shrimp on the bbq Friday night. We grilled the aforementioned Royal Reds and Pinks. Also had some scallops for Bobbi since she’s allergic to shrimp. Cheryl made some delicious bruschetta and corn on the cob which she had soaked in milk and I can’t remember what else. Jerre contributed a salad and, of course, we had more wine than we should have. After dinner we reconnoitered at the Pub for dancing and music.

We said goodbye to Cheryl and Tim Saturday morning then the girls, chauffeured by Rob, headed to the Flea Market on Big Pine. About the only thing not sold at the Flea Market was fleas! Our “flea” treasures on board, we returned to the park for Bobbi’s famous BLTE sandwiches and Bloody Mary’s (e for fried egg), in celebration of her birthday. Still full from the BLTEs dinner was just appetizers. Afterwards we retired to the Pub for an after dinner drink and to listen to the music. This night the entertainer was “Haywire”. He was TERRIBLE! Long blond hair which he kept flipping out of his face because the wind was blowing at him from behind. But, aside from that, he couldn’t sing. He just shouted. We left….

Sunday, Bobbi and Jeff decided to do the tourist thing and headed down to Key West. The returned prematurely reporting that the streets were littered with people falling down drunk.

We all piled in Jeff’s rented minivan and went in search of Hogfish Bar and Grill for an early dinner. A quaint restaurant (euphemism for “dive”) right on a harbor primarily for fishing charter boats.

Monday B & J left at noon for an 8 p.m. flight out of Miami. Now just the four of us, we had a quiet cocktail hour, barbecued a couple of steaks and were eaten alive by noseeums.  No sleep for any of us, just scratching all night.

Tuesday Jerre and I had pedicures at Nadines. We had back to back appointments which meant at least two hours at the salon. We had arranged to meet Rob and Stan for lunch at Square Grouper, about a block from the salon. They didn’t get the “two hour” message so they arrived early and waited at the bar for us to join them. I had a delicious fish lunch (snapper, grouper, who knows!) in a lime/cilantro sauce. Really yummy. No dinner again, due to the late lunch. Happy hour inside due to the bug situation.

Wednesday, Jerre took Stan to a restaurant she had been to before for a private get-a-way. Rob and I relaxed at home. Happy hour inside again.

Thursday we scheduled dinner at El Siboney, a Cuban restaurant in Key West then we would venture into Mallory Square to join the throngs watching the sunset. This is another very popular restaurant, especially with the locals. We planned on an early dinner before sunset. We arrived about 4 and parked right in front. Dinner was authentic Cuban with black beans, yellow rice and plantains. I couldn’t eat all my pork so I asked for ice to keep it cool while we watched the sun sink into the Atlantic. Stan had a whole fish which he devoured. Rob ordered Cuban Skirt Steak. It was barely cooked and was sent back for a little more heat. I normally like beef on the rare side, but this was too red for me. Jerre had the same pork I did, but Stan helped her eat it so there was nothing to take home.

Parking can be a problem at Mallory Square, but we found a handicap spot at the Westin right on the square. We wandered around for a while watching acrobatic performers, jugglers, and listening to musicians. We watched a cruise ship depart as required before sunset then grew tired and found a place to sit down to wait for the sun to set about 45 minutes away. The square is huge and had lots of people roaming around, but we never felt a crush of people…until about 20 minutes before sunset. People started coming “out of the woodwork” and lining the seawall to get the best viewpoint. I can’t say the sunset was spectacular, we’ve seen better at home. However, this is tradition to watch the sun set over the southernmost point of the continental U.S. and most times it is worth seeing.

One of the performers. Note the size of the crowd before sunset.

Sunset

Apres sunset crowd!

Friday and Saturday were uneventful…laundry, coach cleaning, and getting ready to leave on Sunday. Rob bought a large fan to use outside to keep the bugs at bay and we were able to eat ourside on Friday. Dinner Saturday at one more of Cheryl’s restaurant recommendations…Roostica, an Italian/Pizza place.

You would think we didn’t do much, but eat and drink the whole time we were in the Keys, but we did nose around area some just enjoyed relaxing. We were sad to leave the Keys, but anxious to get away from the noseeums and mosquitos.

Our next stop-Miami Everglades RV Resort.