Sea to Shining Sea Part 11 – High Island and Port Lavaca, TX

March 31

A short drive (under 200 miles) to High Island, Tx.

Rob and I went to High Island by ourselves to check out the birding activity. This area is well known among birders because of its proximity to the Gulf and the migratory paths of many birds returning from wintering in South and Central America. The Houston chapter of Audubon Society has purchased and manages several bird refuges in the area. One of them, Boy Scout Woods, was within walking distance of our RV park. As soon as we were settled, we walked over. It was late in the day and the last volunteer was just closing everything up, but she did spend some time with us describing our options. She also told us that a Painted Bunting had been hanging around the house across the street in the back yard. The house is being used by volunteers from Houston Audubon so it was okay for us to go into the back yard. We checked the yard on our way back to the RV park, but no luck.

Dusk was approaching and we wanted to get to a rookery in time to see the occupants fly in.

Here they come

Close by the RV park is Smith Oaks Sanctuary, 177 acres of woods, wetlands and ponds. Within it is a rookery that is a popular evening watch. We hustled back to the RV to get our car and took off for the rookery. What an amazing sight! Many of the birds had already staked their roost and many more were still arriving…hundreds and hundreds of Roseate Spoonbills, Double Crested Cormorants, Great Egrets, Great Blue Herons, Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Tri-colored Herons. And what a noise they made! There was a lot of squawking as one bird flew in with a stick to add to its nest and another bird (another type) flew over and stole it.

Early arrivals

Mostly Spoonbills and Egrets

Great picture Rob took of a Roseate Spoonbill

The rookery is in the middle of a man-made pond originally dug to hold water for the High Island community and to supply water for a nearby sulfur plant. A pathway winds around about half of the pond with viewing areas cut into the brush complete with benches to sit on. This is a very popular photography spot and, judging by the size of their lenses, some serious picture taking was going on.

April 1

Rob wanted to check out the ferry to see if we would fit so we drove out to the end of the Bolivar Peninsula. This is another of the areas we were directed to for some good birding of shore birds. We watched as a couple of RVs boarded the ferry confirming that we could leave by this route. 

On the way back to High Island we stopped at one of the recommended birding spots-“Bob’s Road”. This road doesn’t seem to go anywhere except across a swamp. There are ponds on both sides all along the road and at its end. There were several birds we were immediately able to identify and then there was a small white “egret-like” bird standing on a rock. It was quite accommodating just standing there while we scrutinized every part of its body in an effort to identify it. We finally decided it was a juvenile Little Blue Heron, confirmed with “Sibley’s”.

Just barely a blue tinge on the head

Just on the off chance Mr. Bunting would show up we stopped off at the Audubon house. He wasn't there so we sat down and waited. Our perseverance paid off as very shortly I could see a flash of blue and red in the tree. Being very still, we were able to get some photos of this beautiful bird, although he never came out from behind the feeder.

Male Painted Bunting

April 2

We’re ready for some serious birding! Scheduled this morning at 8:30 is a walk through Boy Scout Woods led by three professional birders employed by Tropical Birding Tours. Andres was from Ecuador, Cameron from the U.S. and Scott from Canada. All of them lead birding tours all over the world. We didn’t see very many birds on the walk, but we learned a lot about migration and we had a nice walk in the woods.

Present in abundance, but not always visible, the Northern Cardinal

Close up of another one

Birds migrate south for the winter, some to Central America, some to South America, some just south in the U.S. They migrate north when the weather warms flying over or around the Gulf of Mexico. All along the coastline are recognized migratory bird corridors. Once they begin their journey they have no place to land until they reach the border. The weather patterns affect when they leave and whether they will reach their destination. A southerly wind will benefit the birds as it carries them northward without their having to expend any effort. Winds from the north will slow them down and cause early fatigue. When the winds are from the north High Island birders benefit because the birds land sooner. Wouldn’t you know we were experiencing southerly winds carrying the migrants much further north.

Another walk with the same team was scheduled for 12:00. We met up again at Boy Scout Woods and caravaned to the coast along the Bolivar Peninsula. Our first stop was Roll Over Pass, a man-made cut between the Gulf of Mexico and East Bay. Our guides set up their spotting scopes along the East Bay. Tide was low providing shallow foraging and resting spots for thousands of birds. Andres suggested an organized approach to spotting and identifying all the birds we were seeing, but that wasn’t happening. Our fellow birders looking through binoculars were shouting out birds they recognized, while Scott, Cameron and Andres we using their scopes. Several of the birds were easy to pick out, i.e. Avocets, Skimmers, Pelicans, and Cormorants. The varieties of Terns, Plovers, and Sandpipers however, were intermixed making identification very difficult. 

American Avocets using the team approach to feeding

Black Skimmer

Black Skimmers napping, looking like they're dead

Too much chaos for our leaders. We packed up and moved to another site. Rob and I decided to revisit this area once the guided tour was over.

This time we stopped at a grassy field near a residential complex. We were specifically looking for an Upland Sandpiper. The field was being mowed as we drove in dousing any possibility the Sandpiper would still be there.

On we moved to “Bob’s Road”, the spot we visited yesterday. A few birds were spotted and discussed then the group was dismissed. Rob and I headed back to Roll Over Pass. We wanted to see if we could better sort out the Terns and Sandpipers. Terns are easier than Sandpipers only because there aren’t so many varieties. I failed at Sandpipers!

Along the road we spotted a flock of Cattle Egret in amongst, what else???Cattle!

Cattle are off to the side out of the picture

Heading back to the RV an Upland Sandpiper stepped out onto the road in front of us. Check one more off our list! And this bird, which is also everywhere.

Great-tailed Grackle distinguished from the Boat-tailed Grackle by the color of the eye 

 April 3

We left High Island via the Bolivar Peninsula and the very small ferry across Galveston Bay on the way to Port Lavaca where we would meet up with Stan and Jerre and Jurhee Ivy and Jerry Clary, another couple from SWCCers who now reside close by in Victoria, Texas.

Hardly looks big enough

Dusty's watching the circling Laughing Gulls

On the way, we pulled over in the middle of a forgettable tiny town to have lunch. While we were stopped Stan and Jerre passed us, stopping long enough to say they were going on and would meet us at the RV park.

We stayed at Texas Lakes RV Resort. This is a very nice modern RV Park with spaces set around a central, man-made lake…no gators in the lake. 

Relaxing by the lake

Stan and Jerre took a different route than we did and arrived just a few minutes before us.

April 4

Rob and I explored around Port Lavaca. He wanted to show me where he spotted Crested Caracaras. Naturally, they were no longer there.

I found a quilt shop, the first one on this entire trip. (Not that there weren’t any along the way, I just didn’t look.) Of course, I had to buy something! Two new projects added to my long, long list.

Nice little shop 

We stopped by the Port Lavaca Lighthouse Beach and Bird Sanctuary, a city park with a boardwalk out over the wetlands. It was Saturday before Easter Sunday and the park was filled with parties. We walked out on the boardwalk and watched as some White Ibis scratched around in some silt. While we were watching (with binoculars) a strange looking bird ran across the silted area and disappeared into the vegetation. An American Bittern! One very secretive bird, hard to spot because they resemble their surroundings so well. We have seen them before so we knew just what it was. No picture though. Rob was looking through his binoculars, not his camera. Off in the distance, we saw another Spoonbill in company with Ibis.

Scissor-tailed Flycatcher

View across the wetlands of the Spoonbill and Ibis

Telephoto lens shot

April 5

Jerry and Jurhee arrived today for a day of relaxing and enjoying old friends.

Tomorrow we leave our friends behind for more birding along the Rio Grande

Sea to Shining Sea part 10 - Biloxi to Abbeville

Sea to Shining Sea part 10 Biloxi and Abbeville

March 25

Off we go to Biloxi, MS less than 300 miles from Carrabelle. We’re staying two nights at Majestic Oaks RV Park very close to Keesler Air Force Base. The park is well maintained, but the sites seem fairly short and close together. Turns out it used to be a mobile home park that was re-invented.

Photo of the Alabama taken at 55 MPH as we crossed over Mobile Bay.

The Alabama was commissioned in 1942 and served during WWII in the Pacific and the Atlantic. She was decommissioned in 1947, but assigned to reserve duty. Her nickname is "Lucky A". She retired in 1962 and opened as a museum in 1964, Unfortunately we didn't plan time to visit.

After we got settled, Rob and I went in search of a car wash to erase all remnants of our trip through Tate’s Hell!

March 26

Stan and Jerre had been to Biloxi before and recommended we take a “shrimping” trip to learn all about shrimping. The weather forecast called for rain, but not until afternoon so we ventured down to the docks hoping to get an early tour. There was only one boat that takes visitors out for a shrimping demonstration. The owner and his deck hand, Dave, were repairing their nets on the dock. 

Mending the net

They were also watching the weather on their phone, which was now showing severe alerts and bands of yellow washing over the area. (Yellow indicating thunder and lightning.) They thought we could probably fit in part of the tour, (the part where they catch the shrimp) and finish the program back at the dock. The sky was dark, but it wasn’t raining, yet! 

We barely got away from the dock when it started sprinkling. By the time we got out far enough to drop the nets it was pouring, with lightning and thunder. 

All us passengers were under cover, but Dave was out in the elements working the net. The first pass brought in a sting ray, a Blue crab and nothing else.

This gal bites! She's already lost one claw, but it's regenerating.

The ray was released and the net sent back down. This time two shrimp and some small fish were captured. Shrimp are captured in a big net. But shrimp live in the mud so they have to be driven out (Must be related to crawfish!). Heavy chains are pulled in front of the net to stir up the mud. The net is also attached to two large flat metal boards about 2 ½’ x 5’ which spread the net and hold it down. When the mud is agitated the shrimp swim up and into the net. The second attempt filled the net with mud. Before we could bring it up the captain had to "wash" the net by gunning the engine.

Throwing the net and boards

Anticipation rising

Our catch

Pretty small shrimp

Interesting facts about shrimp: their eyes are on the end of appendages and can swivel independently 360°. Different varieties of shrimp are identified by the length of their antennae. One female shrimp can spawn 1,000,000 eggs which then hatch within 24 hours.

Shrimping is a major industry in Biloxi and it is heavily regulated. The normal season doesn’t start until the end of May or early June as soon as the regulators give the go ahead. Until then the shrimp boats are in port and the crew is out of work.

Lots of idle shrimp boats

By the time we got back to port it was lunch time. Stan and Jerre wanted to go back to a favorite restaurant called Mary Mahoney’s. It was still raining heavily so between leaving the boat and getting to the car, then getting from the car to the restaurant we were all soaked. I should mention this is probably THE premier restaurant in Biloxi and despite looking like drowned rats, the hostess took us right in and seated us, drawing some “looks” from other patrons. We had a nice lunch. While we were eating a very nicely dressed lady approached our table and asked if one of us would take a picture of the group of ladies she was with. Jerre, being an enthusiastic photographer, complied. This group of about 15 ladies was seated at the far end of the room and had been quite loud. As they were leaving several ladies thanked us and the one who had made the request stopped by to chat. Quite the Southern Belle, by her accent. She told us her husband had been involved in remodeling the “trailer” park to the RV Resort we were staying in. The ladies in her group had all graduated from high school together and remained in the area. They get together once a month since their 50^th class reunion.  

This old tree is named the "Patriarch" and claims to be over 2000 years old! Hmmm??

Mary Mahoney's

By the time we finished eating the rain had stopped and we were dried out.

Back out at the RV Park the Thunderbirds were practicing for an air show the following weekend. Their flight plans took them directly over the RV Park so we were able to watch. Another plus…being so close to the Air Force base we were able to hear Reveille in the morning and Retreat at night. Turns out they were recordings. I guess the Air Force doesn’t have any buglers.

March 27

Off to Abbeville and Betty’s RV Park.

Betty’s is a small, unique park built around Betty’s house in Abbeville, LA, the heart of Cajun country. Rob and I stayed here four years ago and really enjoyed our time there. Since then she’s added a couple more sites making accommodations very tight. Once you’re in your site you’re fine, but maneuvering our 42’ monster required moving some cars and careful watching of mirrors and slides. 

That dark car is our spot

Betty has many guests who return year after year creating a “gathering of old friends” atmosphere. Everyone was very friendly and welcomed us into their well-established group.

Cocktail hour on the patio

Betty invites everyone to gather on her patio in the afternoon for Happy Hour. Our arrival night Betty made Jambalaya and BBQ’d pork chops for the entire group and asked that each guest contribute a side. Rob and I made a run to Sam’s Club for ice cream bars for dessert for our joint contribution with Stan and Jerre, a big hit.

March 28

Each day starts out early for me and Jerre, and Dusty. Dusty has learned that between 7:00 and 8:00 a.m. Jerre and I get together to get in some exercise walking around the neighborhood. He now sits at the door around 7 and waits. If it gets to be closer to 8, he starts getting antsy and whines.

After our walk (and shower) Rob and I went into town for the Farmer’s Market. Stan and Jerre were meeting their friends from Lafayette at the market a little later. There were lots of homemade items from painted signs to crocheted baby booties to jams, jellies, bbq sauce and baked items. It being a “farmer’s” market, there were also fresh fruits and vegetables. I bought a jar of bbq sauce and some scallions.

Betty had planned to have musical entertainment tonight, but more than half of her guests had to decline stating they had been invited out for pizza. What was really happening was a surprise party for Betty’s birthday. It was planned by her niece conspiring with the “RVers”. I’m sure Betty suspected something when she was ordered to be absent in the afternoon.

Everyone pitched in with decorations recreating a Casino atmosphere in keeping with Betty’s penchant for gambling.

Heavy Hors d’oeuvres were requested. I planned to bring Supper Nachos and needed to do some shopping. Walmart was only a few miles away so off we went. Unfortunately, Walmart didn’t carry chorizo, the key ingredient in the Nachos. Luckily, the small market a few blocks from the RV Park did. The trip to Walmart was not totally a waste, we were able to pick up a few more bottles of wine (I wonder how many bottles of wine we’ve consumed thus far?) and we located a laundromat!

Ready to party!

Finally the hour came and Betty was ushered into her patio, through her house, by her daughter, granddaughter and grandsons, and her niece. She was obviously delighted at the “surprise”. 

Each of us gave her lottery tickets in keeping with the party’s theme. She also got two boxes of “Franzia Chillable Red Wine”, her all-time favorite! I didn’t know you could buy red wine specifically brewed to be chilled. A great time was had by all, long into the night.

Custom cake

March 29

Rob and Stan left at 0 dark:30  to go fishing off the coast. Unfortunately it was not a good day for them. The guide was not up to their standard and the fishing was slow.

Jerre and I did laundry! I should have spent some time cleaning the coach, instead I read a book.

Cocktail time came and we all gathered in the patio. Pretty soon, one of the guys brought in a huge tray of boiled crawfish, then another, then a tray of boiled potatoes and more crawfish. 

They had huge pots set up outside their coaches where they were cooking. 

Who carries this much stuff in their motorhome?

 Rob and Stan showed up in the middle of the feast, but weren’t in the mood for crawfish. Not so Jerre and I. We must have eaten at least a dozen each, gratis, and totally unexpected! Another fun evening at Betty’s. You just never know what’s going to happen. We've been here three days and dinner has been served each evening. I could get used to this...no cooking, no dishes to wash. Well, except for our wine glasses!

March 30

Our last day in Abbeville. Rob and I drove around the area for a while birding and ended up at Rip Van Winkle Gardens. The 1 ½ mile road leading into the Gardens is lined with very tall Live Oaks. 

Nearer the highway, is a pond that has become a rookery for Roseate Spoonbills. We have been wanting to see “Spoonies” since Key West and while we’ve seen a few captive ones this is the first time for wild “Spoonies”. These birds migrate off someplace warm during the winter months, but return each spring. The pond is set back away from the road so we could not get too close to them.

Those pink spots are "Spoonies"

This garden is in the southernmost part of Louisiana’s delta country where several islands rise up 50-100 feet above the surrounding marshes. (I think these are what is called “hammocks” in Florida.) They are sitting on mammoth monoliths of salt, some 2-3 miles wide and 5 miles or more deep. Salt monoliths, or domes, form from the deposition of salt in a restricted marine basin. When the flow of seawater into the basin is not balanced by outflow the water evaporates leaving salt deposits. Over time the salt layer is covered with a layer of sediment which increases in density and decreases in buoyancy as it becomes compacted. The underlying salt layer is more buoyant and, with certain geologic events and millions of years of time, can form domes of salt.

This particular island is known as Jefferson Island after the first owner, Joseph Jefferson. Joseph Jefferson was an actor famous for his portrayal of Rip Van Winkle. He bought this property in 1869 and built his mansion in 1870. It sits on top of the salt dome, 75 feet above sea level on Lake Peigneur. There aren’t many homes at that elevation in the coastal areas of Louisiana. He eventually sold the property to a partnership of John Bayless, Paul Jones, a bourbon distiller, and E. A. McIlhenny, maker of Tabasco Sauce. 

Joseph Jefferson Mansion

Bayless developed the gardens around the mansion in the 1950’s after selling the salt mine that tunnels under the island and the lake.

Peacocks roam the gardens. Several of the males were exhibiting their plumage in hopes of attracting a female. The females were having none of it

There is a legend that Jean Lafitte, a notorious pirate, buried his treasure under a giant live oak. When the gardens were being constructed three chests of treasure were discovered and subsequently disappeared. It is thought that the laborer who was digging around the tree absconded with them.

Bayless built his home and a ½ acre conservatory/welcome center on the edge of 1300 acre Lake Peigneur. On November 20, 1980, a Texaco drilling rig pierced one of the giant caverns in the salt mine flooding the entire mine. The vortex that was created swallowed the lake, 65 acres of the island, the welcome center, conservatory and Bayless’ new home. A drilling rig, several barges loaded with trucks and rock salt, boats and equipment also vanished. Nine of the lost barges floated to the surface after water from the Gulf of Mexico replenished the lake. The prior 10’ deep fresh water lake is now a 1300 foot deep salt water lake. 55 employees of the mine were able to escape as did a local fisherman who was on the lake in his small boat. Miraculously, no lives were lost. Out of court settlements totaled close to $45,000,000 for damage caused. The mine closed in 1986, and is now used for storing pressurized natural gas.

Lake Peigneur

This chimney is all that's left of Bayless' house.

March 31

Rob and I left Betty’s and headed to High Island, Texas to check out birding activity. Stan and Jerre enjoyed Betty’s so much they stayed behind for two more days.